If you are not getting hot water, it could be a damaged heating element, but water on the floor means you’ll need a new tank.
The data Label on your current tank has size and energy specifications which are helpful to know when buying a new water heater
First, check your home’s water pressure with the pressure gauge on your outdoor {inaudible word at 0:00:25 } 50-60 psi is ideal. If psi is higher than 80, you can lower it with a pressure reducing valve installed after the main water shut off.
An inline pressure gauge and a thermal expansion tank are good to have too. The expansion tank helps alleviate excess pressure in the lines. You can install an expansion tank easily with push fit fittings. They simply slide under the pipe no sautéring needed and to remove use the simple removal tool.
If you decide to solder, de-bar and clean in the pipes and fittings, apply soldering paste and assemble. Then heat the fitting and solder. The expansion tank pressure must be the same as the main water pressure.
Use a hand air pump to increase the pressure or depress the valve to lower it. To remove the old water heater, turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker check that the power is off with a voltage detector.
Use tape to mark out how the wires are connected and disconnect. Open a tap on hot and let it run until the water is cool.
Now shut off the cold water supply and connect a garden horse to the drain valve. Open the valve and empty the tank into buckets or a drain. Opening a hot water tap can help the tank drain faster.When the tank is empty, remove the discharge pipe from the temperature and pressure relief valve ( T & P relief valve)
Disconnect the water supply pipes, if you have to cut them, leave them as long as possible, then remove the old tank. To install the new tank, Set it in a drain pan. Avoid possible flooding by {Inaudible word at 00:02:22} to a drain. The T&P relief valve opens when temperature and pressure are too high. Install the discharge pipe on the valve to direct the water toward the drain.
If you do not have a drain, place a bucket under the pipe and cut the pipe to no more than 6 inches above the bucket. Hooking up the water is easy with a flexible horse kit, and its recommended for earthquake safety.
Apply plumbers tape on the threads of the heat trap and attach the horses. Some areas require dialectric fittings to reduce corrosion between two different metals. Add plumbers tape to the connector body threads. Secure it to the horse, then hold the horse up to the pipe, it should have a little slack. Mark and cut the pipe.
Remove the bars and slide the compression nut onto the pipe. Push the pipe into the fitting and tighten the nut. If required by code, install seismic straps to help prevent earthquake damage.
They brace the water tank against the wall, to avoid toppling over. Next, remove the aerator from the nearest tap, and open the hot side. Turn on the cold water supply and check your connections for leaks. If everything is good, continue filling the tank. When water runs from the tap , the tank is full. Let it run for about 3 minutes to empty air out of the tank.
The tank must be completely full before connecting the wiring to avoid dry firing, which ruins the heating elements. To connect the wiring, remove the junction box cover and attach the ground wire to the green ground screw. Using the previous connections as a guide.
Twist the wires together with wire connectors, replace the cover, and turn on the power. If you do not have power, turn off the circuit breaker and check your connections.
Follow your manufacturer’s operational instructions. It might take several hours to initially heat the water. 120 degrees celsius is recommended. After a few hours, check the discharge pipe. A dripping pipe usually means that the pressure is too high.
Turn it down below 80 psi. Also, if a tap stops working after installation, take out the aerator and clean it and then run hot water to remove loose sediment and now you will be able to enjoy hot water for many years.
